Blog #17 Visit to Souk el Had
Image from Explore Agadir Souss Massa
The Souk el Had in Agadir is one of the biggest souks in Morocco. It is open six days a week, except on Mondays, and its name means “Sunday Market”, reminiscent of when the market was only open on Sundays. The market is enclosed within adobe ramparts that stretch for several city blocks – over 13 hectares in the center of Agadir. The souk houses an abundance of foods, spices, carpets, tajines, meats, produits de terroir, linens, fabrics, shoes, furniture, crafts and more. Souk el Had was built in the early 1960s following the earthquake and was renovated in 1997. It now has a roof and flooring and offers visitors a bountiful array of both traditional and contemporary goods.
Walking down the avenue, red taxis and pedestrians abound. Crossing the road and dodging incoming traffic, we walk into the market as a group wearing name tags. This always makes me uneasy and makes me feel conspicuous, especially in markets. I like to blend in with my environment and act like I know what I’m doing so that I convey confidence and don’t get harassed as much or taken advantage of when making purchases :)
The doorway into the souk is vaulted and located next to the mosque adorned with glistening teal mosaic patterns. Street vendors line the avenue selling skewers of orange meat for 4 dirhams each. The vendors outside the clay walls offer shoeshines or small tissue boxes for a modest price. Homeless men sleep under blankets, men kneel to pray on traditional woven carpets. Women walk arm in arm. Mothers drag their children behind them, imploring them to keep up. Descending the sun-bleached steps into the market we are met with the smell of charred meat and the sounds of vendors hawking their many goods.
Men with golden bells on their oversized red hats ask for money. Who are they? Holy men? The stalls are packed into cramped spaces and lotions, oils, creams, pajamas, bras, and shoes abound. Aisha asks about the price of argan oil from the cooperatives, females in red jelebas with black head scarfs gesture vaguely at the different products available. What is the significance of red for Moroccans? The flag is red, and according to the internet red is the color of the Prophet Mohamed's followers and many claim that it evokes bravery and strength.
**Update on the men with the golden bells: They offer water in goatskin bags for 1 dirham to anyone in the market who is thirsty.
I don’t feel comfortable buying any argan from the souk, as we will be visiting many families in the countryside that will no doubt be producing the good stuff. I am however interested in the honey here in Morocco. There are so many types of honey available: cactus, argan, orange, thyme, lavender. I want to buy them all.
How much for the clay tagines precariously stacked atop each other? 60 dirhams.
As we turn the corner a man with a yellow polo shirt beckons to us; he’s very friendly. We taste argan butter (amlou) and smell the various oils and eucalyptus. Cactus honey – just a teaspoon of it burns your throat if it is pure; if it burns your mouth or tongue, it is mixed (adulterated) or modified in some way. Apparently if you freeze argan oil (or honey?) and it separates, it is mixed with something else and therefore no good and you should not buy it. Grinders made of steel are for sale for argan production, small and large, reminding me of my grandfather’s corn mill on his farm. Haggle for 250 ml of honey and finally settle on 70 dirhams. SPICES! So many beautiful spices and aromas – I must remember to take some home for my husband.
« Madame, un peu d’argent s'il-vous-plaît ? » beggars weathered by the scorching sun ask as we pass by.
What is the culturally accepted method of eye contact in Morocco? Do you avert your eyes? Do you look directly at someone? Is it a gendered communication? How do locals react to the many tourists wearing tank tops and shorts strolling through the market?
Explore the market yourself by watching this video!
-Written by Jess Vinson, PhD Anthropology student at USF
